Mencuk Gesture to Sexy Alluring Fashion: Semiotics of Ronggeng Karawang
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.55927/mudima.v6i4.38Keywords:
Contemporary Fashion, Mencuk Movement, Ronggeng Karawang, Roland Barthes Semiotics, Sexy Alluring Style, AI Virtual Try-OnAbstract
This research explores the transformation of the mencuk movement a simple, spontaneous, attractive, masculine yet sensual and dynamic gesture from the Ronggeng Karawang dance (West Java, Indonesia), into contemporary fashion design with a sexy alluring style. Using a descriptive qualitative approach and Research & Development (R&D) method, data were collected through observation, in-depth interviews with cultural practitioners (including Mr. Haji Wahab, a cultural figure from Tempura Village, Karawang), and visual documentation. Roland Barthes' semiotic theory (denotation, connotation, myth) was employed to decode movement meanings, while Lamb & Kallal's FEA (Functional, Expressive, Aesthetic) framework guided the design process. AI-based virtual try-on (VTON) technologies including VITON-HD, LaDI-VTON, and TryOnDiffusion were utilized for rapid visual iteration. Findings reveal three core philosophical meanings embedded in the mencuk gesture: Power (energy, spatial mastery, courage), Beauty (fluidity, sensuality, elegance), and Fertility (creativity, natural dynamism, Sundanese women's life force). These meanings were translated into design elements: diagonal-asymmetric silhouettes (H-line, fit body, fit & flare), rhythmic draping, rice-flower motifs, macrame textures, and material combinations (jacquard, lace, organza, taffeta). The research concludes that traditional dance gestures can be systematically transposed into fashion narratives through semiotic analysis, producing culturally sensitive yet globally appealing contemporary designs. This study contributes to the growing discourse on local wisdom-based fashion innovation and offers a replicable model for translating intangible cultural heritage into tangible design artifacts.
References
Ahmad, Y. B., Anoegrajekti, N., & Attas, S. G. (2021). Peran seni dalam pemberdayaan masyarakat: Goyang Karawang sebagai identitas budaya lokal.
Atkinson, D. (2012). Fashion design: Process, innovation & practice.
Atkinson, Mark. 2012. How to Create Your Final Collection. UK: Laurence King Publishing.
Barnard, M. (1995). Fashion as communication. Routledge.
Barnard, M. (2006). Fashion theory. Routledge.
Barthes, R. (1967). Elements of semiology (A. Lavers & C. Smith, Trans.). Hill and Wang.
Barthes, R. (1972). Mythologies (A. Lavers, Trans.). Hill and Wang.
Barthes, R. (1983). The fashion system. University of California Press. DOI: 10.14361/9783839404537
Borg, W. R., & Gall, M. D. (2003). Educational research: An introduction. Pearson.Boston:Allyn & Bacon
Bowen, G. A. (2009). Document analysis as a qualitative research method. Qualitative
Bruzzi, S., & Gibson, P. (2013). Fashion and celebrity culture. Bloomsbury.
Calefato, P. (2004). The clothed body. Berg.
Cannadine, D. 2010. The context, performing and meaning of ritual. The Invention of Tradition,101–164. New York.
Caturwati, Endang. Sinden Penari di Atas di Luar Panggung, cetakan 1(Sunan Ambu STSI Press Bandung, 2011), Pustaka Pelajar
Chaney, D. (2004). Lifestyle: Studies in the sociology of consumption. Routledge.
Cho, Emily, Neila Fisher, and Hermine Lueders. 1986. Its You Looking Terrific Whatever Your Type.New York: Villard Books.
Choi, S., Park, S., Lee, M., & Choo, J. (2021). VITON-HD: High-resolution virtual try-on via misalignment-aware normalization. CVPR.
Elih Hayati, Juju Masunah, Yuliawan Kasmahidayat.2020: The Eksotik Dance of Goyang Karawang, Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research, volume 519 Proceedings of the 3rd International Conference on Arts and Design Education (ICADE 2020).
Fele, B., et al. (2022). C-VTON: Context-driven image-based virtual try-on network. WACV.
Halliday, Rebecca. The Fashion Show Goes Live Exclusive and Mediatized Performance. Bloomsbury Publishing, Great Britain, 2022.
Han, X., Wu, Z., Wu, Z., Yu, R., & Davis, L. S. (2018). VITON: An image-based virtual try-on network. arXiv:1711.08447.
Hopkins. John. 2012. Fashion Design. Switzerland: AVA publishing.
Imro’Atul Mufidah, Perkembangan Kesenian Ronggeng Di Daerah Jawa Barat Tahun 1940-1965, AVATARA, e-Journal Pendidikan Sejarah Volume 4, No. 3, Oktober 2016
Indarti. Metode Proses Desain Dalam Penciptaan Produk Fashion Dan Tekstil, BAJU Journal of Fashion & Textile Design Unesa.ISSN 2747 – 2574 th, 2020
Indrayuda. Tari Tradisional Dalam Ranah Tari Populer: Kontribusi Relevansi, Dan Keberlanjutan Budaya, H Vol. XIV No.2 Th. 2015.
Kawamura, Yuniya. 2005. Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies. Fifth Avenue, New York: Berg
Koberg, D., & Bagnall, J. (1981). The allnew universal traveller: A soft-systems guide to creativity, problem-solving, & the process of reaching goals. Los Altos, CA: W. Kaufmann.
Lubart, T.I. (2001). Models of the creative process: Past, present and future. Creativity Research Journal, 13(3–4), 295–308. https://doi.org/10.1207/s15326934crj1334_07
Morelli, D., et al. (2022). Dress Code: High-resolution multi-category virtual try-on. CVPR Workshops,”Conference Paper”
Morelli, D., Fincato, M., Cornia, M., Landi, F., Cesari, F., & Cucchiara, R. (2023). LaDI-VTON: Latent diffusion textual-inversion enhanced VTON. ACM MM.
Nakamichi, Tomoko, 2011. Pattern Magic 2. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd
Peirce, C.S. (1991). Peirce on Signs. Chapel Hill: UNC Press.
Rahmaputri, H. A. Z., Budiman, A., & Taryana, T. (2024). Ibing pencug gaya Kaleran Kabupaten Karawang. Ringkang, 4(3).
Ramlan, N. R. L. (2013). Jaipongan: Genre tari generasi ketiga. Resital, 14(1).
Research Journal.
Rosala, D., Supriyatna, A., & Suryawan, A. I. (2018). Pencugan ibing penca Topeng Pendul Kabupaten Karawang. Panggung, 28(1), 17–24.
Sedyawati, E. (2006). Tari: Tinjauan Historis, Fungsi, dan Maknanya. Jakarta: LIPI Press
Suryaman, A. (2019). Ibing saka: Telaah kreativitas Namin dalam Bajidoran. Jurnal Seni Makalangan, 6(1), 22–28.
Wang, B., Zheng, H., Liang, X., Chen, Y., Lin, L., & Yang, M. (2018). CP-VTON: Toward characteristic-preserving image-based virtual try-on. ECCV.
Williamson, J. (2002). Decoding Advertisements. London: Marion Boyars.
Zhu, L., et al. (2023). TryOnDiffusion: A tale of two UNets. CVPR.
Downloads
Published
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2026 Retno Andri Pramudyarini, I Gede Mugi Raharja, Nyoman Dewi Pebryani, Tjok Istri Ratna, C.S Nasional
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
